My Year of the Life of Leisure

I left my job, left my apartment, sold most everything in that apartment and embarked on a year of travelling and leisure. I am working on writing a couple of books. This might be one of them... But then, my chief pursuit is leisure, so who knows exactly what will happen.

Friday, November 19, 2004

A little more about BA

So, a friend sent me an email earlier this week, asking about some details of BA, and it made me realize I've been writing mostly about my day-to-day travails. So here you go:

I happen to live very close to Congresso. Yes, that is the Congress building. It is covered in graffiti, and there are regularly protests in front of it. It seems unusual to me that a government would let their building of Congress become so wildly defaced.

The light in the sky, at about twilight, most nights is a magical shade of blue -- the sort of blue you see on some CSI episodes, or in movies. I've tried to capture it with my camera, but have not yet done so successfully. It is really very lovely.

Tipping in taxis is not really standard. Last night, after coming home for three hours of Cuban salsa dance classes (oh yeah!!), I tipped the driver one peso, on a 10 peso trip. He was surprised and proclaimed me ¨muy amable¨(very kind). The same thing happened this morning (I took a taxi to school), when I just rounded my payment by about 20 centavos. Am not sure if they recognize me as a non-porteña and are flattering me, or if they are really that surprised by a little propina. As a side note, if the fare comes to 4.14, the driver will generally just say the fare is 4 pesos.

There are not coins smaller than 5 centavos.

The police here, well, sometimes they just don't care. Case in point: a little grocery store moved in directly below my residence, a few weeks ago. I arrived at the residence at about 11.40pm and heard 'boom' 'boom' 'boom boom' and 'whizzzzzz' (I don't know how to better describe a power saw). High on adrenaline, and needing to do my homework, I did my homework. All the while, my bed was vibrating, and I'm *two* floors above the grocery. At 1am, I went to the kitchen for a snack, and the construction was still going on. The girl who is in the room right next to the kitchen came out, lamenting the noise. She said it sounded like someone was chipping away at her wall and was going to come bursting through. One of the proprietors came downstairs, and threw a stone (not a small one...) over the wall, on to their roof. No cessation. He called the store. No cessation. He called the police. They never appeared. The girl went downstairs to try to talk to them: the proprietor pretended to not understand spanish (they are Chinese, I think), and the Argentinian worker said he couldn't stop because he needed about another two hours to finish his project. It was then, 2am.

Alfajores are my favorite (cheap) dessert. They are unique to Argentina, or so I've been told. They are like little cakes, and you can buy them in kiosks everywhere, and in some restaurants. I'm addicted to them, and if I wasn't walking and dancing like I currently am, I would surely be putting on weight (as a side note, I've lost at least 10 pounds so far, since I've arrived here).

Traffic is nuts is here. If there is a space, the car or motorcycle will take it. Lanes painted on the road are just a suggestion. Motorcycles 'ride the slot'. So do taxi drivers.

Pedestrians (including me) are a little nuts here. People just jaywalk. If there is enough time and space to cross a street, you cross. Regardless of the light. I've had to explain to a few people (including a European) the concept of jaywalking, and explaining that it is a fine-able offense in some American cities. Especially Seattle.

The cheese in Argentina has little flavor. I would do many things for some fresh, rich mozzarella. Or cheddar. Or goat's milk cheese. Or Gouda. I have found a Gouda that I enjoy -- probably because it has crushed peppercorns in it. I'm not sure if the cheese is better quality (it's more expensive) or if it's just more flavorful because of the peppercorns.

I now eat fries with a fork. Unless I'm eating a cheeseburger.

I still eat pizza with my hands, though.

Now, meat cooked on a parilla (grill), the Argentinians have the world beat. I have steaks at least a few times each week. They are not marinated, yet they have the most incredible flavors, depending on the restaurant and the age of their grill. If you know what seasoning a [frying] pan is, you will understand this. The grills are cleaned superficially, but never scrubbed down to the actual metal. Hence, all the flavors from what is grilled, and the fat, are permanently on the grill and flavor everything else that is grilled. De. Lic. Ious. And, you can get a good steak for under $12 pesos ($4USD).

Other notes: I will [finally] learn the past tense (well, one of four that exist in Spanish) on Monday. Yay!

No more ants or other insects in my bedroom.

The sun is starting to appear again!! In time for the weekend!! Unfortunately, that will mean mosquitos...

A man in my salsa class last night was entranced by my eyes (blue), and told me they were like lights in his heart. ¨Los ojos esta´ como luzes en mi corazon.¨ If he wasn't so sweet and a good dancer, I would have just brushed him off. As it was, I found him charming and sweet. He kissed my hand when it was time to change partners.

So, that's it for now. Have a lovely weekend.

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