My Year of the Life of Leisure

I left my job, left my apartment, sold most everything in that apartment and embarked on a year of travelling and leisure. I am working on writing a couple of books. This might be one of them... But then, my chief pursuit is leisure, so who knows exactly what will happen.

Wednesday, June 29, 2005

Where do I go?

So, I have no fixed plans for between this Friday night and next Saturday morning. I'm booked in to my current hotel through Thursday night, so I either need to stay longer or leave Paris. I'm considering staying an extra two nights, just to do some sightseeing and so that I'm not travelling on Friday or Saturday (I'm sure I've mentioned how I truly dislike doing this).

Places I'm considering going:

Morocco
Nice
Brighton Beach
Wales
Berlin
Portugal

If you only had 11 days left in Europe, where would you go????? Suggestions can be emailed via the link on the sidebar.

Mille grazie!

Internal conflicts

So. Now that I've nearly reached the end of this trip, part of my just wants to hop on the next plane and return to the US. Of course, I would much rather stay here in Europe. But the idea of earning money instead of constantly spending money is very seductive, and the sooner I start earning money, the sooner I can return to Europe.

I hope to return to Europe in February, or so, and look for a teaching job then. I would try to do so in Milan (for the obvious reason and for the reason that I really liked the city), but I've heard that the pay for English teachers is about half of what it is in Prague, and the cost of living is certainly higher. So, it is looking like I will go to Prague, save some money, then either travel some more or move somewhere else to teach English. The future will tell.

I have no idea where I am going on Friday (which is when I'm supposed to leave my hotel). I'm toying with the idea of Morocco or Spain or Portugal. Or perhaps some other place I haven't even thought of. If I leave on Friday, I will have a week somewhere, as I plan on arriving in London on Friday or Saturday next.

I still just want to buy a suitcase, go to London and pack it up and get on the next flight outta here.

What's happening to me???

Soldes: friend or foe

Soldes, for you non-French speakers, means "sale". Today, the crowds in the shops was heavier and there was a bit more of a battle-like feel amongst the shoppers. I shudder to think what it might be like on the weekend...

Today, the shopping booty was much smaller than yesterday. I did find a lovely ring and semi-matching earrings, which was nice. Though, they were unable to resize the ring to fit my ring finger, so I have to wear it on my middle finger. It's probably one of the larger rings I've ever purchased, so I think wearing it not on my ring finger will work fine for it.

My feet are reminding me that it's not necessarily a good thing to walk around for hours, two days straight, wearing sandals. I think I have a new blister on my left foot. Though, I think the sandals are more comfortable than my waiting-to-be-thrown-away-before-I-leave-London loafers. I bought the loafers in Glasgow, cheap, and they have served their purpose. And it will mean I there will be one less pair of shoes in my backpack, so I will have a little more space.

Now, time to read the Paris Vogue and Elle, and lust over clothing and jewelry that is outside of my current budget.

Tuesday, June 28, 2005

Paris shopping

It can really take it out of a girl... :) I found some lovely things today (including the second red, linen skirt I've bought since I was in Italy...). I saw two pairs of shoes I would like to call my own, though I put off any decisions until tomorrow. I was only shopping in one area today, and I want to look around more before committing to more purchases (like the jeans I mostly liked in one store today). My backpack is filling up again, and if I find more cool things tomorrow and the next day, I'm sure another package back to the US will happen.

It's cool to come to a city where I have a general sense of direction, immediately upon arriving, and where I know where important things, like good clothing stores, are at...

Wish me luck for shopping tomorrow!!

ps Heard from Him. Unfortunately, his schedule was difficult this weekend and it prevented us from meeting. Though, his email left seeing each other again open for the future, and I'm very glad about that! I want to go on another motorcycle ride (and no, that isn't a metaphor for something else, though that would be More Than OK, too...in which case I'd say: I'd like to eat cherries with him again).

Sunday, June 26, 2005

Demain, Bonjour Paris!

Yes, tomorrow I am going to Paris.

Yippeee!

For once, the train is cheaper than the flight (but only because I waited an extra day to book the flight -- the fare went up €100...eek). Though, it will be very nice to see the French countryside during the day. I remember it as being very beautiful.

Now, time to go buy my train ticket and then come back to the hotel for a nap (head a little sore) in the air conditioning, and then go out for a walk and a meal once the high heat of the day has abated a little bit.

I can't wait to see Paris again!

Saturday, June 25, 2005

The Agony and the Ecstasy

No, dear readers, did not hear from Him today. And I called him and he said he would call me at my hotel or stop by. I must admit I called him earlier today, after a slightly strained call yesterday, and I knew it was a grand mistake as soon as he responded to my voice. Still, the other night is a beautiful memory, and cherries will never be thought of the same way again. Though, I fear I will not see him again before I leave Milan on Monday.

Che sera sera.

The ecstasy was going to a fabulous party this evening. Someone I met online, in the same way I met Him, invited me to a party being thrown by a French guy he knows. The French guy is part of a small band, and there were songs performed throughout the party. Very, very cool. I wish them all the best with their music. I met some really cool people and am sad that I will not see them again before I leave Milan. For instance, the slightly crazy Italian guy that put on some girl's heels, and walked around and danced for quite a bit longer than you might think. And then a plastic cup became lodged on one of the heels. Very, very funny. Or the Sicilian guy who went on about why he loved Sicily so much (even though he didn't have all the English words to fully explain himself, but I understand what he meant), who was also quite a flirt.

It was a great party and the perfect pick-me-up after the agony of checking my email today and hoping to find a message whenever I would stop by the hotel today. Some things are not meant to be, but it is so much nicer when they are tempered with fun things like great parties. I even did a shot of vodka (which I hate, but is nicely tempered if you have a piece of cantalope to eat immediately afterwards (sort of like limes and tequila)), mixed in with a bunch of Italian and French wine.

I hope my head doesn't hurt in the morning...

I think I'm going to Paris on Monday. I'm going somewhere on Monday, though. I adore Milan, but it is time to leave. Especially if He doesn't get in touch with me tomorrow... I adore him most of all, but it was either a One Night Thing, or I was a little too forward with trying to contact him to see him again. The latter happens when I get excited about someone and only have a very little time left in the same city... So it goes.

To be clear, I didn't sit around my hotel all day waiting for contact from Him. I went to the Monument[al?] Cemetery, and it was absolutely magnificient. One of the best cemeteries I've seen, though I still believe the one in Budapest is the best I've visited. I took as many photos as my memory card would allow me to. Afterwards, I went on a rather long walk (see the first of yesterday's posts), and got a mild sunburn. It is rather hot and humid here -- I can only fear what July and August are like in Milan.

So tomorrow, don't know when I will wake up, and I imagine most everything will be closed (this *is* a Catholic country...). Perhaps lie in bed and watch Italian tv, finish my last new book in English, sleep, and do some writing. I've caught up a lot on my personal writing, but there is still quite a bit more to do.

Che bello notte! The night makes up for the day.

Friday, June 24, 2005

A happy bit of news

I've for so very long wanted to be able to post:

I believe my ankle is finally, finally normal.

Though, I will continue to wear the ankle brace on travel days when I'm lugging my bag around.

I'm walking around a lot more without my ankle brace, and it's not getting sore or swollen. I even mis-stepped with it a couple days ago, and it twisted slightly but didn't get inflammed and it didn't hurt. After so long with having to be so very careful with it and continuing to think it was tender, it was an incredibly pleasant surprise to have it behave like it used to.

All together now: Hip Hip, Hoooorrrrraaaaayyyyyy.

The view from the Duomo

Is quite simply, utterly magnificient. I went to the Duomo yesterday, and wanted to go to the roof, but my digital camera batteries started to die, and I wanted to make sure I could take plenty of photos.

And am I glad I waited. I had thought the roof area would be small-ish, sort of like the one at Notre Dame. How wrong was I... There is much more than just a passageway around a spire. I've never been so close to so many gothic flying buttresses in my life (my old art history teacher would likely be pleased that I can remember what a flying buttress is). The views of Milan are incredible, and it is also incredible to be able to see so much of the architecture of the Duomo. It's also interesting to note that many of the gargoyles and little statuary on the spires have thin metal bits sticking up from them -- presumably to prevent birds from nesting. The spires look so delicate, as if a strong wind could break little pieces of the stonework away. Yet, the Duomo has been around for 600 or so years, if I remember correctly. I heard someone say that it was the fourth or fifth largest church in Europe.

Such grandiosity is awe-inspiring.

Thursday, June 23, 2005

Oops

I heard from Him. There was a delay in responding for very valid reasons, and I believe him (he'd already mentioned some of what is going on in his life). My initial opinion of Him was accurate and I'm very sorry to have doubted it (but, after bad experiences with some men in the past, it is understandable, yes?).

We will be seeing each other again. We both want to get to know each other more.

Why does this happen at the end of my trip???

Perhaps I should seriously research teaching English in Milan (I've already done a cursory informational search)...

It's embarassing to admit that someone I like this much has so much sway over my mood.

Though, taking a brief nap helped, too.

Perhaps I will stay here longer.

My heart is swollen with happiness.

Restless

So. As I'm in the throes of trying to arrange a few things for my return to Seattle (mobile phone, lodging, job being the Big Three), I'm starting to feel restless. I think there's also a certain amount of restlessness since this is the end of my trip. Some of you might think that the last few weeks would be a whirlwind of activity. I'm finding that I'm going back to my Lazy Way of Sightseeing. As in, seeing perhaps one thing a day.

Today, I met someone for lunch. It was cool and he invited me to a party this Saturday night.

I'm planning on leaving Milan on Sunday, though I don't know where I'm going. I'd like to go to Paris for a few days, but finding lodging there is rather difficult and I don't think I even want to know what hotel prices are like there...

I also feel a little restless because after a little proper romance (in retrospect, the Turkish Interlude was just that, an interlude), I want more and I don't think there is to be more with the man from the other night. He really is a great guy. A shame.

Oh well. I suppose I just feel like the kid in the candy shop...a kid that is given a dollar one day and is able to have candy (after not having good candy in a Really Long Time...), and then is hoping the same person will give them a dollar a couple days later. Perhaps a poor analogy for this, but I'm sure you all get the idea.

Or maybe the restlessness is just an indicator of not wanting to let go of this nomadic life of mine. Sort of a pre-mourning for this nomadic life.

I need to get this restlessness out of my system, so I don't squander the end of this holiday.

I need to dance.

Wednesday, June 22, 2005

Milan, x2

So, now I actually have time to see a bit of Milan. That is, see Milan not on the back of a motorbike...

After a short nap this morning, I went to Pinacoteca di Brera. An art school that also has a very, very nice museum. I saw it listed in an Italy guidebook at His flat last night and remembered seeing it listed in mine. In any case, it was an interesting trip, as I hadn't seen any signs directing to the museum [from the entrance to the building that I used], and I ended up walking around the art school for a while. Which was actually pretty cool. I walked past students, art being sold in the hallways, student art just being displayed in the hallways. I found a really lovely enclosed garden that students were lunching and smoking in.

Eventually, after feeling lost and mistaken that there was actually a museum there, I saw an admin office. The museum is on the first floor, not the ground floor.

It is an exceptional museum and has some key pieces of Italian renaissance art. There are also some very, very beautiful Modigliani's, that I was very sad not to find postcards for in the gift shop.

After spending some time online, I was off for another, proper nap. I'm back at the i-cafe again, hoping for emails from various people. I'm in the midst of searching for lodging in Seattle, searching for free lodging in Paris (there are a couple websites I know of where people list couches and spare rooms that they are willing to let people use for free...one of these is how I ended up meeting Him, even though I didn't end up staying there the night I originally was looking for (which brings me to another idea in my head: using online research for accomodation as a source for dating -- someone I emailed in Seattle about a room in his flat mistook something I wrote that he interpreted as a suggestion that I would be a Friends with Benefits (though still paying rent) in his flat; I cleared this up, as it wasn't what I meant at all, and I think it's a funny story and an interesting idea (the lodging search/dating thing)) and just regular correspondence.

Anyway, spent part of the post-nap evening reading a book I bought in Germany. The novel I was intending to write is a contemporary version of a novel from 100 years ago. I happened to find a novel that is billed as exactly that, and of course I couldn't resist buying it to see what that author did with the storyline. It is, indeed, a rewrite of the novel I covet. Though, while well-written, I think it relies a little too much on people being familiar with the earlier novel, or willing to accept that you're unable to empathize with the main character. She's vacuous, yes, but the novel is written in third-person...

In any case, it's interesting to see what someone else has done with the novel. And because I think my version would be much more timely and interesting (of course I feel this way...), it feels like a little kick in the pants to get me started working on it again.

OK. I'm hungry now, and this i-cafe is hotter inside than it really is outside.

Bellisima notte

Yes, that was me *again* on the back of a motorcycle late, late last night and this morning. The man has more than one bike, and the bike last night was a later-model Moto Guzzi. A dream of a bike.

Later, he fed me cherries.

Love Italian Style: Yes, Italians do it better.

Tuesday, June 21, 2005

No sleeping in Milan tonight...

To clarify, I am returning to Milan this evening. Late this evening. And it's looking like I have an even later date...

I am so impatient to get to Milan!! He wanted to take me to hear his band practice and then to a party, but my flight doesn't get in until almost midnight.

I can't wait to see those eyes and that smile and...

In German news, I've had a fantastic time with my friends and will be sad to say goodbye to them. I also went to the Gutenburg Museum today (bet *you* didn't know Gutenburg was a Mainz man...), and that was really, really cool.

Now, time to take a quick shower and finish packing a couple small things in my bag. Then, I will be counting the minutes until my plane lands in Milan and I arrive at my hotel. And then I will change into one of the sexy new tops I have and put on fresh perfume.

Perhaps He will surprise me at the airport!

I am such a romantic optimist...

Monday, June 20, 2005

A sad tidbit

I only have 20 days until I return to Seattle.

Really, it's 19 plus one travel day. The day I leave London, I leave very early in the morning...

Mourning flowers can be sent to me via email...

I can't believe this trip is coming to a close.

I suppose that means I just have to start planning the next one in more detail...

On blissful weekends

Aside from a rather byzantine journey to Germany on Saturday, my weekend was blissful. It has been an incredible treat to stay with friends and to even just be around people I've known for longer than three hours or three days. And oh, to be able to indulge in Girl Talk with a really cool girl I met in Buenos Aires.

Saturday night, I was taken on a pre-dinner walk through the city, and then there was dinner (German food - yum - I had a steak (also, the region I'm in is known for its wines, and I can attest to this -- I had the nicest white wine (and I rarely drink white wine these days) that I've had in a very, very long time)) and then for a walk along the Rhine, before ending up in a beer garden (love the German beer). It was an exceptionally long day for me, and the evening was perfect. It was surreal for a bit, finally being around more than one friend at once, and also because I met them all in Argentina. But as I think I've written before, I will (and have before) travel across the world to see my friends.

Yesterday, we went on a drive along the Rhine, through many small towns and what I imagine can accurately be called hamlets. Very pretty, very warm, very lazy walking. We were able to avoid most of the tourists (wow, the number of tourists buses on a Sunday afternoon...), which was exceptionally nice.

It's been a laid back weekend, and as I've probably said far too often, I'm so pleased to be with some friends again. It's one thing to email or im with friends, and it's another to get a hug or look into their eyes when they speak to you or have them show you around their city.

The poor souls are all at work today, so I will be exploring the city on my own, before meeting up with them this evening.

And I'm very much looking forward to going to Milan again...

Alas

The Friday night date did not happen. You can't stand between a man and his career...

I'm flying back to Milan tomorrow night.

Here's to happy reunions...

Friday, June 17, 2005

Yes, that was me last night on the back of a motorcycle in Milan

So, am now in Milan. Very lovely and it seems everyone is very well-dressed. I feel like I can only wear a couple things, since it's the end of my trip and most of the clothes I have with me (except for the nice ones) are a bit worn.

Though, I think I have an outfit for tonight. This is because I may have a date. In a story I will perhaps tell another time, I'd met a Milanese man by email the day before yesterday. He took me out for a drink last night, and I'm hoping to see him again tonight. Conversation consists of a mix of Spanish and English (his Spanish is much better than mine -- more verbs and vocabulary). He has very gorgeous eyes, and is well, gorgeous anyway...

I'm going to Germany tomorrow to visit some friends, and I suspect I will be returning to Milan on Tuesday or Wednesday... If I see him tonight, it depends on how that goes. If I don't see him tonight, I'm pretty sure I'll return because I want to see him and he's said he wants to see me, too. And judging by our 'goodbye' yesterday evening, I believe him.

In walking around news, went for an evening walk last night (after the drink date). Walked by La Scala, which I'm sure has a phenomenally gorgeous facade. The facade is currently covered in scaffolding for repairs or cleaning. Alas. Walked by a great many shoe and clothing shops, and my bank accounts are happy that the shops were closed....

I now have several blisters on the bottom of toes and the bottom of my left foot, from my new sandals. Note: need to use baby powder (which I have) on feet when walking around in shoes with a leather lining (don't know how I forgot this (ok, maybe I was a little dreamy because of kissing), but I did).

So, I'm wearing my more comfortable, and much worse-for-wear, loafers and I will shortly be going on another walk. It's sunny, there's humidity (which, strangely, I miss from Argentina) and I have time before this evening.

Though, if I meet up with him tonight, I will be wearing the sandals.

Wednesday, June 15, 2005

On NOT seeing David

So. My guidebook says the Galleria Dell'Accademia is open until 8.15pm.

Ummm. No.

I arrived, after stopping to buy the CDs (yay!!! even though one is only a single, because there is not a full cd out yet...), and a pair of sandals (oh, so comfortable and stylish, too!), I figured I'd have about 90 minutes to see David and the some of the Slaves statues.

Wrong.

The Accademia closes at 6.50pm, and the entrance was already locked when I arrived at 6.30pm.

I think I will just stand and ogle the oxidized David statue in the Piazzale Michelangelo, which is right by my hostel.

I've also seen a forgery of David, as part of the Victoria and Albert Museum's (London) Forgery Collection, back in 1998. Does that count???

I think my museum-going experiences for Florence are just doomed...

On NOT going to the Uffizi

Yes. I know it's a crime. However, after waiting in line (on a gorgeous, hot, sunny day) for 90 minutes and not moving at least 1/2 way through the line, I gave up. I plan on going to Milan tomorrow, and if I wake up early enough and have the energy, I will try the Uffizi before catching my train. Otherwise, I will sadly give the Uffizi a miss. My guidebook recommends reservations to go to this museum, but the reservations are sold out for this week...

In any case, I will hopefully find a CD shop today, and buy the two Italian CDs I want, and then go to the Accademia, and hope the lines to see David aren't as ridiculous as those at the Uffizi.

Since I didn't imagine the line at the U would be longer than one hour, I didn't even put my book in my bag...

At least I will (hopefully) have new music to listen to while I wait at the Accademia...

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

Florentine Mix

Oh, to have been able to go to the museums yesterday!! It was a lovely sunny day -- the kind of day that you don't mind waiting in the sun. Though, I did do quite a bit of walking around and I visited the Duomo. As much as I really Don't Care If I See Another Cathedral or Church, it was really lovely and stunning -- from the tessera'd marble floor, to the high, high ceilings, to the inside of the fantastically painted dome.

I also bought a[nother] purse. I'm still on the lookout for shoes, but surprising have not found an affordable pair that I like. I've found €80 *sandals* that I like, but I don't have that kind of budget for sandals...

Today: Rain, and lots of it.

I had planned on getting an early start to try and beat the museum lines, but with the rain and a minor sore throat this morning, I decided to finish my book [that I started yesterday -- 700 pages......]. With the sun peeking out around noon, I 'started' my day. And now, a mere 90 minutes of arriving in the city center, it looks like my day is finishing.

The rain has started again. And of course, I'm wearing a completely inappropriate sleeveless top under my (of course) jean jacket.

Normally, the rain wouldn't bother me so much (after all, I am from Seattle), but with the sore throat and no cheap way of dressing warmer and protecting my throat, I will shortly be headed back to the hostel. Just as well, really, as I need to catch up on a few days journal writing, and that will take a while.

And I only have one more book in my backpack, anyway... I've been saving the Carl Hiassen, because I enjoy his books so very much. He's one of the few writers that can really make me actually laugh out loud while reading. I read a variety of Literature and contemporary fiction. Though, I've been pretty deprived of Literature for a while, and as much as I enjoy Chick Lit, I'm quickly starting to weary of it. Simply, it's generally easier to find in hostel book swap shelves than anything remotely challenging and deeper thought inspiring. If you catch my drift. I once picked up a Barbara Kingsolver novel, and was blown away by the exquisite writing. Why can't I find more like that???!?

I've become quite tangential these days, haven't I?

Anyway, I started a post last night, but my time on the hostel computer ended, so it was lost. I'd wanted to share the sunset from last night. It was a dusky, muted violet color, and lasted for ages. Shapes of clouds added depth and changed the violet-ness. It was truly beautiful and I rue that my camera didn't pick up the duskiness of the sky (side note: my camera does exceptionally well in low light situations, and it picked up a lot more light than what I could actually see with my eyes -- as such, the end result photo is much different than what I actually saw).

The only thing to mar the beauty of the sunset was The Americans. American college kids have Arrived in Europe. And I tell you, I don't like them one bit. I'm not found of hearing group sing-alongs to 'With or Without You' or impromtu singing of 'She Rocked Me All Night Long' (at least, I think that's the title of that song). And my god, can they drink!! I went to the bathroom about 5.30 yesterday morning, and saw dozens and dozens of beer cans and wine bottles littering the terrace tables. While reading by flashlight last night, I heard a couple get back to a tent close to mine. She was drunkenly berating him for something and it was getting towards fighting words. I think he caved a little and then distracted her by romancing her. I was thankful for the quiet. She told him (and all the tents surrounding theirs) that she was probably going to get sick 'later'. Thankfully, she had the grace to either avoid the bushes or to sleep through the night. Though, I know she woke up with a massive hangover because I heard her complaining about it this morning...

Then, there was the guy from the tent directly behind mine. Getting sick in the bushes (I've mentioned that I'm staying in a tent on a campsite, right?!), around 1am. At least it didn't smell, and today's rain will wash away, or at least dissipate the sick, instead of sun coming out and fermenting it. Ick.

Anywayyyyy. I was going to head to Milan tomorrow, before going to Germany on the weekend to visit some friends I met in Argentina. However, I am determined to see David, and I can't *not* go to the Uffizi Museum. That just is not possible.

So, my jacket is soaked and the thunder and rain seem to have slightly abated. For the moment.

Which means it's time for me to run to the bus stop and head back to the hostel, put on some warm and dry clothes (I only have a little cardigan...), curl up under my blankets and catch up on my journal writing. I've made a pact with myself that I cannot start reading another book until I catch up on my personal writing.

As a child, one of my father's friends once told me if I ran fast enough, I could run between the raindrops and not get wet.

Wish me luck!

Friday, June 10, 2005

Bologna gets better

Though, my day yesterday was still pretty wrecked because of the nap I took. I did walk around a bit yesterday and today, and some of the old parts of town are very lovely. University is either just finishing or just finished, and there are tons of students roaming the streets and tons of flyers for apartments, bicycles, scooters, etc for sale or for rent for the summer.

I've started shopping.

I wanted to go to the Ducati Museum today, but when I was checking for hours, I saw the fine print that said viewings were by appointment only. Alas.

Tomorrow, I will be on the train to Bologna and a hostel that has no lockouts or curfews (YIPPPPPPPPEEEEEEEEEEE).

And I will get to see if all the hype about David is warranted or not. I remember when I saw the Mona Lisa, I thought it was lovely, but it didn't resonate with me as much as other classical paintings did. It's like someone fifty years ago thinking Dostoevsky was brilliant, but when I tried to read D several years ago, I thought "this is why there are now editors..."

In any case, I'm happy to be on my way out of Bologna, even if I didn't get to go to the Ducati Museum.

Vroom

Tuesday, June 07, 2005

Lightning strikes Venice

I don't think I've ever seen lightning up close before. You might not guess that it is rather shiny.

No. I wasn't hit by lightning, though when I was on the bus, crossing a bridge, I could see the lightning and it was pretty darn close. It looked like it was hitting some of the smaller islands. And it looked shiny. I felt empathy for the poor folks in the airplane flying below cloud level -- the plane was obviously headed towards the airport and lightning was cracking all around it.

Today was much better on the shopping front. I only bought one thing and it wasn't glass! I now am the owner of a lovely, small Italian leather purse.

I'll be sad to leave Venice tomorrow (I'm heading to Bologna), but my cash flow will greatly improve. It also helps that I'm going back to hostelling again.

Yesterday, I walked around (more) and went to the island of Murano. Murano is the center of the Venetian glass-blowing industry, and if I may say so myself, I exercised considerable restraint. This means that what I bought wasn't for myself.

I also stopped at the cemetery (well, the vaporetto did, so I hopped off). It's not as interesting as I might have imagined an Italian cemetery might be. Though, it was the most flower-filled of any cemetery I've visited.

In the evening, I rode the vaporetto through the Grand Canal. Very beautiful. Very romantic (pity that I wasn't in the company of a lovely Italian...). Walked around the main island (really, set of islands) for quite a while, then vaporetto'd back. I managed to take some really cool photos (including a couple in black and white and sepia), and I'm quite pleased with them. Venice at night really lends itself very gracefully and beautifully to black and white photography. It also helps that my camera does beautifully in low light situations -- the photos I took would never have been possible with a flash.

So anyway, a light rain continues to fall and I'm debating on whether or not to go back to the city (I'm staying in a Venice suburb) and search for Harry's Bar. The write in me says YESYESYES, and the tiredness in me (I walked around for several hours today and I have not had a nap...) says SLEEPEARLYSLEEPEARLY!

All I know is that I'm going to Bologna tomorrow, and Florence pretty soon thereafter. Oh yeah!

Saturday, June 04, 2005

Amo Venezia

I LOVE Venice.

I LOVE Venice.

I LOVE Venice.

People often ask me which city I've liked most. Or sometimes which cities. Buenos Aires, obviously. Budapest. While other cities I've enjoyed, there haven't been any cities other than these two that really struck something deep within me.

However, that was until today...

The Italians love beautiful things, and it seems the Venetians most of all. I've been to Rome before, and enjoyed it (except for the lack of trees or other greenery inside the city). I've been to Cinque Terre and enjoyed the beach. However, I was completely unprepared for Venice.

I love that there are precious few cars inside Venice. Basically, you can only find them on the very outskirts, by the bus station, as absolutely no cars are allowed within the city (as if they could drive over water or through the mostly tiny passageways..). I love that the best way to get from one place to another is the vaporettos (water buses). If I could afford it, I would ride in a gondola and be all super touristy and get the punter to sing for me. I love that many buildings are all sorts of vivid, muted colors. As a walker, I love that this is a walking city. There is no way to see this city well, unless you walk. And walk. And then walk some more. Though, if you have problems walking (injuries or if you can't walk), then this is not the city for you, as any walking involves walking up steps to cross the endless bridges that connect this city together. I love that there is art everywhere -- from sculptures on building facades, in shops and great museum collections. The art is more than that, yet it is difficult to explain. It is as if the art and beauty are just *infused* in to every single thing here.

I want to learn to speak Italian and live here.

I haven't even made it to Florence or Milan yet.

I'm sorry Buenos Aires, but I think you've been usurped as the place I want to be most of all... Lo siento muchissimo!!!

And much as I'd love to go dancing tonight, 1. My guidebook says that there really aren't any good discos here, and 2. I want to wake up early and visit museums tomorrow and walk even more and take more boat rides up and down the Grand Canal and just walk around even more.

Oh, and I know I'm going to blow my budget here... I've already bought a gorgeous Murano glass necklace (from a street vendor, though, so it wasn't terribly expensive), and I've seen other bits of jewelry and small glass bits [that I think I can carry safely without breaking] that I would love to have.

I haven't even started to look in the clothing shops...

I may have to detour in to Slovenia so that I can live incredibly cheaply for a week, to recover financially from what Italy is going to do to my finances.

Though, I may very well just throw caution to the wind and break out the Mastercard...

I LOVE Venice.

I LOVE Venice.

Amo Venezia.

Friday, June 03, 2005

My Gauche Life

I've realized my life this week is a bit fantastic. And I mean fantastic in the true sense of the word.

Let's recap.

Friday: fly to Istanbul, from Kusadasi
Monday: fly to Brussels, from Istanbul
Wednesday: fly to London, from Brussels
Friday: fly to Venice, from London

It's a lot different when I'm taking trains and buses, but traversing the European continent like this, within the space of five days (really), seems a bit gauche.

I've found myself starting to choose my words and descriptions of what I'm doing a little more carefully, after seeing some truly incredulous and High Jealousy looks. It's just that this life has become normal for me, and this doesn't seem that incredible to me. Granted, this week is a bit unusual with all the flying, though, it doesn't seem like the most incredible thing possible.

I almost chose to fly to Marrakech today. That would definitely have made this week a much more incredible.

[Of course, I didn't book my flight for Venice until about midnight last night...]

Now, off to find some lunch and enjoy this new bit of London sun (I don't think I've ever been in London when it's been sunny and warm...on this trip or when I was here in 1998). Of course, it's getting sunny just as I'm getting ready to leave. Apparently, it was also quite sunny and warm the few days immediately preceding my arrival here.

Am I only meant to be in London when it's grey, cold, snowy or rainy?

Visiting old colleagues

So, yesterday I went to Cambridge, to meet a lady I used to have a working relationship with when I worked at Amazon.

It was wonderful to meet R, and she took me to a lovely place called The Orchards, a literary hotspot back in the day, and then to lunch in a pub. I can't tell you how much I was dreaming of traditional British food when I was on my way here. I had a lovely steak and mushroom pie. Mmmmmmm.

I went in to storytelling mode, and we both had a good time laughing over my stories.

After, I walked around Cambridge a bit. Though, I didn't really want to pay to walk around the campus, so I didn't. Also, many buildings were just plain closed, as end-of-year exams are going on right now. Still, had a very lovely walk through a gorgeous park, had some student hit on me by speaking French to me, found a book that I've really been wanting to read and had a great time meeting R.

Interesting Cambridge tidbit: students are not allowed to drive. Hence, there are bicycles and cyclists *everywhere*.

Wednesday, June 01, 2005

She almost took me hostage aka Too Many Stamps In My Passport??

And I'm talking about the customs lady at Heathrow today.

CL: Where are you coming from?
Me: Brussels.
CL: And where before Belgium?
Me: Turkey.
CL: Who is this address for? [I'm staying with a friend for a couple nights, and you have to put down your address on the incoming custom form.]
Me: A friend.
CL: [flipping through my passport] Is this the person you stayed with on your visit here in February?
Me: No, he was out of town.
CL: [Continuing to flip through my passport] How long will you be in England?
Me: 2-3 days.
CL: Where are you going then?
Me: Maybe Croatia. Maybe Florence. Haven't decided yet.
CL: Where else have you been in Europe?
Me: UK for six weeks, Eastern Europe for about two months.
CL: When do you leave Europe?
Me: Two months.
CL: What do you do?
Me: I'm a writer.
CL: What kind of writer? Fiction, non-fiction...
Me: Mostly fiction.
CL: How did you get the money to finance this trip?
Me: Part inheritance and part stock from my previous job.
CL: Where did you work?
Me: Amazon.com.
CL: Thanks. Enjoy your visit.

I know I've left a couple sentences out, but this is really about how it went. I've *never* been grilled like this upon entering or exiting any country.

I can't tell you the joy I felt unloading so much from my bag today! And I still intend to take another pass at it to remove a little more. While I intended, in July, on purchasing another bag to carry my travelling booty home, it's clear I need that bag NOW. The little backpack I already left here is full, as is a tote bag that I'd prefer to carry with me further (it's a perfect size for beach excursions...).

Though the funny thing is: I'd completely forgotten some of what was in the bag I left here two months ago. I pulled out a skirt and cardigan I'd *completely* forgotten about...

Tomorrow, I'm off to Cambridge to meet a lady I had quite a bit of contact with, while I worked at Amazon. She was also just in Turkey (not that far from where I was last week, really), and since the other ladies I dealt with will unfortunately not be available, we will be able to (she said this, so I can't take credit for coming up with this):

Talk Turkey.